Woolwich Works. Here to see a rehearsal of The Passenger, the latest play by Ade Berry, starring Alex Walton. A sequel to the highly acclaimed From Ibiza to the Norfolk Broads, but very much a piece in its own right. One I absolutely loved.
I can’t make the sharing on Saturday night, so I’ve come today instead, simply for the love of it.
This time, I’m taking no chances with the Elizabeth Line and arrive half an hour early, wondering whether the café will be open on a weekday. The place is overflowing. Apparently Louis Theroux is in the house, which takes me back. I once met his father, whose Paddling Around French Polynesia had been my literary guide when sailing through those waters en route from France to Australia.
My mind wanders while I wait for Ade to collect me from reception. Then a call from a headhunter brings me back to reality. Do I apply for the job?
Ade arrives and we head upstairs.
I’ve met Alex a couple of times before and am introduced to Andi, who has designed the costume and set for both shows, as well as many more on the circus circuit. I’m immediately drawn to the record shop on stage. Boxes of albums, covers displayed on a couple of slanting stands on either side, and a chair centre stage. Mine is directly opposite. The idea of sitting bang opposite a performer for a theatrical lap dance makes me feel distinctly uncomfortable, for Alex as much as for me, so I slip off to the side.
And suddenly I’m in a record shop in a satellite town on the outskirts of Southampton. Martin is 27, ten years on from the last play, and stuck on loop. Like a cracked record, he’s in the waiting room of a record shop where life passes him by. Customers come in and go out, but nothing much happens. Legs On Wax is the name of this little outpost, the only quirk in an otherwise rather unremarkable cultural backwater. The shop is the lovechild of an ageing, chain-smoking rocker, the eponymous Legs, who has become a father figure to Martin. A wizened old Scots geezer with an encyclopaedic knowledge of rock music, not just the tracks but the press, and a wicked record collection. When Legs retires back to Scotland, Martin inherits the shop, the records and a treasured Bowie talisman that hangs on the wall. I rather imagine Legs on the Glasgow side of things.
It is testimony to the skill of the actor that immediately the daylight and empty space transforms in my mind’s eye into the low-lit cabaret table set-up it will have on Saturday night, and I’m instantly drawn into his world. Alex captures the gauche enthusiasm of a boy who has yet to become a man, despite his age, while slipping between all the customers who drift in and out of Legs On Wax, swapping accents and mannerisms with astonishing dexterity. He brilliantly captures the various tossers and time wasters who come through the door, each with their own little foibles, and it’s very funny. The dialogue is sharp, too, with nuggets of wisdom passed down by Legs, including the observation, “People who come in browsing are never actually just browsing.” There’s a whole philosophy in that.
And you can feel that same love of music coming from the other side of the stage. Ade’s own encyclopaedic knowledge is everywhere, not in the sense of showing off how much he knows, but in the sheer pleasure of choosing exactly the right song to carry a moment. The records aren’t just scenery and the soundtrack isn’t wallpaper. It ranges from The Doors and The Clash to Bon Jovi, The Mamas & the Papas, Joni Mitchell and Lana Del Rey, and somehow it all belongs in this world. There’s a real sense that the music has been chosen by someone who genuinely loves it, knows it intimately and understands what it can do dramatically. But it’s not just the music. Ade has written a story that manages to be genuinely funny without making Martin’s pain a punchline, and genuinely moving without ever becoming mawkish. The comedy and the grief sit alongside each other, as they do in life.
Martin’s mum wants him to have an adventure. Legs does too. Along with the shop, he’s left him £3,000, but Martin has no clue what to do with it. He has no direction, this boy who has been living in a bubble.
And then the bubble pops.
A phone call from Morag changes everything. I won’t give away the details, but the floor drops away, and a trigger warning for anyone who is grieving. The switch to a funeral in Scotland is stark. Martin stands there, shell-shocked, as the organ’s generic funeral music segues into Stairway to Heaven. It’s a funny conceit, and despite being reminded of that rocker’s crossroads cartoon doing the rounds on Instagram this week, with AC/DC taking the Highway to Heaven and someone else taking the Road to Hell, the reality of the scene made my eyes tear up. It was all very close to home.
There’s something about the way Alex handles this moment that stays with me. He doesn’t need to announce the grief or underline it. It’s there in the stillness, in the shock, in the space between what Martin has been and what he now has to face.
And then the journey begins. Alex jumps on and off the stage, engaging with the audience as he takes us through Martin’s story. The performance is physically alive, constantly shifting, yet never losing sight of the person at its centre. We’re not simply watching a character stumble through a series of adventures. We’re invested in him.
A plastic bag, a book, and a choice of music that I absolutely love. Riders on the Storm. Martin is, quite literally, heading into a new world. The book sets him on a journey to the Chateau Marmont. I’ve read many an article, if not the book itself, about that hotel, its scandals and the debauchery of Hollywood glamour. I find myself wondering about the stories held within its walls, and what Legs might have been up to during those mysterious couple of nights.
There’s something particularly intriguing about the Chateau Marmont as the destination because it isn’t simply some glamorous LA fantasy. It has that strange mythology of a place where people go to disappear for a while, and where the lives being lived behind the doors are rather more complicated than the image presented from outside. Ade’s own experience there, years ago and in the wake of a loss, sits somewhere behind the story, and perhaps that helps explain why the place feels more emotionally charged than simply a famous hotel in Hollywood.
It’s at the other end of the glamour spectrum from the documentary I’ve just seen, Last Guest of the Holloway Motel, which I highly recommend. But the two places have something in common. People escape there with their secrets.
Martin finally has his quest, taking him from the backwaters to the darker waters and seedier side of LA. A picaresque adventure that takes a detour through a strip joint, in a scene so excruciating for Martin that I’m squirming in my seat. Once again, I’m relieved to have moved off to the side.
I won’t say too much more about where the journey takes him, but Martin is truly broken by the adventure. And it is at this point, in desperation, that he calls the record shop, just to hear the answerphone message Legs left behind. That sets me off again. It is so touchingly done, and I’m immediately reminded of the voice note I’ve kept from my Mum on my phone. I’ve only listened to it once since she died in January. But I need her there, close by, and I often have those conversations with her in my head, in much the same way Martin does with Legs throughout the play. Suddenly this isn’t just Martin’s grief I’m watching.
It's when Martin has reached rock bottom that the breakthrough happens. Not in the happy-clappy, hallelujah sense, but in that quieter, more profound inner joy that comes from discovering a strength you didn’t know you had. The philosopher’s stone of any Odyssey. Not the return to the person you were, but the discovery of who you might yet become.
This is why I loved The Passenger. It’s funny, tender, and unexpectedly moving. It takes someone who seems to be going nowhere and sets him on a journey that asks what it means to find your way through grief, and what might be waiting on the other side of it. There’s no neat little bow tied around the whole thing, and none is needed.
Alex Walton is once again a tour de force. He carries Ade’s story through with such precision and generosity that we really care what happens to Martin. His physicality, his comic timing, his ability to inhabit the different characters and then draw us back into Martin’s inner world make the whole thing feel effortless, even though it clearly isn’t. The fact that he can be Martin one second and a completely different customer the next, changing voice, body and mannerism in the blink of an eye, is part of the magic of it. Martin becomes the everyman of our own grief, our own stuckness, and our attempts to find resilience in life. Alex makes that journey feel personal without ever making it sentimental.
At the end, Martin dances in his hotel room at the Chateau Marmont with the ghost of a memory of Legs. They waltz together to Dream a Little Dream of Me, in the Mamas & the Papas version with Cass Elliot singing lead. A romantic song, perhaps, but I don’t see anything homoerotic in their dynamic. It’s more a tender duet, a moment of connection across time and loss. The show has a cracking soundtrack, as you’d expect, and I’m told it will be turned into a Spotify playlist, as the last one was. Naturally, I can’t resist browsing through the albums afterwards.
Ade recommends I take the boat home. It will make the journey twice as long, but I used to commute to the City on the Clipper in the early days of my life before kids, when Xavier and I were living in the Docklands. The moment I step on board, I become a tourist again. Phone out. Selfies. Video WhatsApps to the kids, bringing them along with me on a trip down memory lane. The river has a way of doing that, of making the familiar feel new again.
At one point, a young lad gets on, bubbling with a similar excitement. He’s just turned 20, around the age of my own son, who is about to turn 21. Though he’s of the TikTok generation, complete with a fuzzy microphone and a little camera on his phone, he’s a real pro. We start talking and swap stories. As we pass the Cutty Sark, I tell him about my grandfather bringing her over to Greenwich. As we pass HMS Belfast, I tell him about my father, who was her last Captain and lived to 100.
I listen to my fellow passenger’s stories too, about where he’s going today and where he hopes to go in the future, and the career he’s setting out to build. He’s recording it all as he goes, talking into his little microphone and camera, making his own story for TikTok. Off on the next adventure.
Here’s to The Passenger, encore. Epic.